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Messages - Chibiabos

#346
Those whom feel compelled to 'do the right thing' by burying or cremating every humanlike corpse, you shouldn't read further.

Presuming you have no colonist immune to strong mood debuff from butchering humanlike and no joywire installed to compensate for such a debuff, the most practical use for corpses I've found without just burying them or leaving them to dessicate is to build a separate freezer for your corpse-feeding animals (cats, dogs, boars, most especially wargs and cougars, etc.).  The great thing is they'll eat even rotten corpses with seemingly no ill effects, so be sure to put a check by 'allow rotten'.  Unfortunately for now, colonists will also haul in dessicated corpses which are, unfortunately, useless.

Your colonists would get a mood debuff from entering that freezer, so I think its a really good idea to intentionally have only a single door going in, so the colonists will never try to take a shortcut through there and will only incur a mood debuff when going in there to haul stuff in.  I prefer to keep the human corpses in their own room separate from hay, since I expect to haul in hay a lot and don't want to trigger 'Observed corpse' mood debuffs every time a colonist does so ... I tend to build a two-room freezer for animals with the first room (most generally accessible) for hay and rotten animal corpses (rotten animal corpses don't, despite some misconceptions I've seen, cause mood debuffs for 'Observed rotten corpse' -- only rotten/dessicated human corpses do that) and an interior room accessible only through a single door from the hay/rotten animal corpse room just for human corpses.

Since you aren't butchering, you don't get the huge stacking 'Butchered humanlike' mood debuff.  And every time your critters feed on a human corpse -- particularly the carnivores such as wargs and cougars whom can't eat hay or kibble -- they won't eat your regular animal meat you use for your colonist meals.  And if you play in tougher biomes/difficulty levels, it gives you a bit of a buffer from choosing between your own colonists starving or slaughtering your colony animals because you don't have enough food for your colonists and animals.

A bit of a 'step back' from this, if you're okay with occasionally butchering humans, I like to use human meat and hay on occasion to make kibble (but I try to reserve a couple human corpses as they build up for my carnivores ... I really like cougars as powerful colony defenders that can outrun fleeing raiders) ... that's a win-win if you can absorb the mood debuff for the butcherer and the rest of your colonists, as it really extends the food supply for your colony animals, even for herbivores (all of whom I believe can eat kibble that contains meat, even if they can't eat meat directly, with no ill effects).
#347
Quote from: Devon_v on May 05, 2016, 05:30:30 PM
An unfinished structure can be "indoors" in some senses, but you really should havento finish the thing to get full benefit and especially to use temperature control.

It seems to be the case all you need is the door to be completely built, the cooler and power conduit to the cooler ... presuming you have the power, you then have temperature control, even if your walls are not completely built.
#348
Quote from: nuschler22 on May 05, 2016, 05:24:37 PM
Also, I think this is pretty much common knowledge for those that have played.

I have been quite surprised how many things I have learned or understood are not understood by other players, even higher-level whom typically play in extreme environments and/or on harder difficulty settings.
#349
Does anyone know whether there are effects of 'outdoor decay' on various things from food to wood, cloth, components and other decayable things besides the thing's hit points ticking down to zero along with its sell value at which point they disappear?

In other words ... if, say, a pile of harvested corn is left out on the field and it decays to the point the hit points are in the red, does that affect meals made from that decayed corn?  Would it increase the chances of food poisoning or gut worms or impact the sell value of the meal that's produced?

Or with a material ... if a pile of wood left outside decays to the point of its hit points going into the red, would that impact the quality or value of, say, a short bow you make from that wood?

Thanks in advance if anyone has already dug into the XML or played around experimentally to see.
#350
Someone correct me if I'm wrong here, but based on my playing around, if I need to make a roofed building in an emergency such as a freezer or prison room, the only part that actually needs to be completed for it to constitute a roofed structure with an 'Indoor' interior is the door.  Everything else making up the 'walls' -- actual walls, coolers, vents, etc. -- just needs some materials in place and don't actually need to be fully built for the roof to be 'complete' and the interior of the structure to qualify as 'indoors.'

I find this understanding handy when I need to build something in an emergency -- often a prison or freezer -- to house something that will quickly decay (corpses/food or incapacitated prisoners) if left outside and unattended.

I don't know if Tynan considers this exploitive, but here's how to take advantage of this to quickly go from nothing to a roofed structure with an "indoor" interior as quickly as possible:


  • Lay out the building -- walls, at least a door, any coolers or vents.  Use whatever materials you have in most abundance (such as wood), even if you want to eventually use better ones you currently do not have much of (such as stone blocks).
  • Manually compel colonists to 'build' each 'type' of wall (actual wall, cooler, door).  Use as many colonists as it takes until no remaining 'plan tile' is un-reserved to bring materials into each to-be-constructed wall cell.
  • As per above, the only 'wall type' that must actually be completed for the roof to be installed is the door ... so once there is at least some material brought to each plan cell of each wall segment (which, again, could be an actual wall, cooler or vent), just focus on completing the door (and for maximum speed on getting the roof, its best to use your highest-skilled Constructor to work on the door, as Construction Skill = building speed ... Construction Skill, so far as I can tell, is entirely irrelevant to using 'Build X (blueprints)' to bring material to the particular cell -- only movement speed is).
  • If you need the structure to be cooled (such as for a freezer), the next thing to micromanagerially focus on would be the coolers and power conduit to power them -- force your colonists to build these while leaving regular wall cells to be completed last.

I find a handful of colonists can, using micromanagement tricks I described above, get a functional roofed building together within just a couple of hours (though completing necessary coolers can take a little longer).

Hope you find this useful!
#351
Quote from: firescythe on May 05, 2016, 08:29:29 AM
Quote from: Chibiabos on May 05, 2016, 03:54:13 AM
I have twenty years of experience on forums, having found my way on to political debate forums in 1995, and I've moderated and even owned a few.  Diversity is both a challenge and opportunity ... thoroughness used to be more appreciated, but unfortunately these days most folk don't appreciate it as you do not seem to. 

Do as you wish, I wanted just to let you know.

I also observed political debates and it is majorly full of "he isn't right, I'm right" reasonings. This needs no subject, therefore not serving any subject. It has no point.

Myself, I do not watch youtube casts too much, just focusing on topic and specific info I'm looking for.

I appreciate thoroughness, but not without a structure. To quote from a respected professor at our Uni "That topic you can not speak about in short, does not worth to be discussed (long)." He is a philosophy professor with area of Social Communities on Internet. I dare to think he knows enough to say that. On the other hand, if the audience do not appreciate long stories, does it serve you still well to keep on them?

By the way, I really do not mean to cause any fight here, so keeping it ON-topic, from my side I already told what I felt to. We may continue in PM if you wish.

If all you provide are short posts and aren't prepared to convey, then no, I disagree.  It sounds like a "neo-study" to trash very long-held and long-established traditions of reason, debate and contemplation to declare short slogans and unreasoned statements trump all.

You also seem to dangerously use "the audience" like some monolithic thing that fits in a box, indivisible with no distinguishable parts.  Perhaps assured you it is impossible, but different people have different tastes, varied perspectives and different learning styles.  I absolutely cannot get a solid grasp on something if I cannot grasp a bit of the often complex and "messy" inner workings, how different sub-parts to 'a thing' interact, react, affect each other, affect their surrounding environment and how the surrounding environment affects them.  Yeah, my type are not terribly popular, but no philospher has ever really advanced a cause without a thorough understanding of context.

I am a writer with professionally published work.  Is my post messy and unedited?  Of course.  Most of my peers -- and I readily admit I am a puny amateur -- share a similar process:  essentially throw everything together in a draft, which actually tends to happen quickly, and then whittle things down through a long, slow editing process which, no, I don't tend to spend much time on in an active discussion board such as this.

One of my favorite professional writing gigs was writing quality control documentation at an aerospace factory, which was my first writing job -- this is technical writing.  I was extremely inexperienced, had no clue what to do, and I was the only one at that factory that cared about writing; there were no senior technical writers for me to draw from, nor even fellow amateurs.  I wound up with over a thousand pages of notes I took on the processes I needed to document, and whittled them down to 300 pages which sounds like a lot, but separate processes were on separate pages so many of those pages described a whole process and probably three-quarters of those pages were about half white space.  Actual text was short and concise from an editing process that took much longer -- I'd guesstimate about ten times as long -- as the process to gather the notes and data and complete first drafts for each process I documented.

I'm not going to translate understanding into slogan-length posts for those with short attention spans, particularly when I am attempting to correct what I believe are common mis-understandings.  If you see a post and you lack the attention span to read it, consider just not reading it instead of whining there are too many words for you to follow.
#352
Quote from: b0rsuk on May 05, 2016, 03:59:00 AM
Who is Quill18 and why should I care ?

If you don't know who he is and don't care about Toxic Fallout events, why bother reading and replying to a post on the topic?  Seems trolling.
#353
Quote from: Mese on May 05, 2016, 04:37:05 AM
I enjoy Quills letsplays. He may not know everything about Rimworld but he is entertaining to listen to and watch and he learns as he goes along (as we all do) and as thats pretty much what counts for a youtuber its all good.

I agree on both.  I wouldn't be commentating on Quill18 if I didn't follow him and enjoy his videos, but some of the assumptions he makes playing Rimworld make me cringe a bit.
#354
Quote from: firescythe on May 05, 2016, 03:38:58 AM
First of all, I am not a moderator, just having 16 years of experience of talking on forums and keeping order on some of them, please take it as an advice:
- You do not need to point fingers on who got it wrong. If you have better idea, people will roll with yours.
- You repeat yourself too much. The ammount you wrote is not comfortable to read through, and seeing that it has plenty of repeats just demotivates readers.
- If you find that you were wrong, either edit your post if initial, or quote the part you need to correct, so you save the readers time to follow-up, what context was around your correction.

I guess you don't play vanilla, so it is not sure that my reply is valid for your playthroughs, however as I noticed toxic fallouts, you don't have much time to prepare isolation after event heads-up. Either you have high stock levels or well-prepared base to live it through. It worths to risk minor level toxication at colonists, but not further. Also manual priority list will serve well for colonists, and saves ginormous micromanagement.

I have twenty years of experience on forums, having found my way on to political debate forums in 1995, and I've moderated and even owned a few.  Diversity is both a challenge and opportunity ... thoroughness used to be more appreciated, but unfortunately these days most folk don't appreciate it as you do not seem to.  For your information, Quill18 is a famous/popular gamecaster, which should be clear if you actually read through my post.  Your commentary/critique is suspect for not having picked this up, as I mentioned and referred to his "let's play" series on Youtube.

Unfortunately the 'won't read because its too long' is becoming all too commonplace as well.  I don't intend to appease the TL;DR crowd to convey complex ideas.

I'm not certain what of my post indicated I don't play vanilla.  I tend to build large farms and the infrequency of traders means I often have a surplus of food.  This is likely due to playstyle differences ... I notice most players whom cast their games build much smaller farming operations than I do; I am often having to ever-expand my freezer to accomodate my large harvests.
#355
..... and I JUST GOT IT WRONG ABOVE.  My current game has a Toxic Fallout in progress, and unfortunately my assumption that larger size = slower buildup has proven false, as squirrels and rhinoceri are dying just as fast. :/  In this case obviously grab the biggest victims first!  (takes same time to haul a big thing as a small thing over the same distance, but big thing obviously has more meat -- better to let the squirrel dessicate than the rhinoceros!)
#356
I am NOT super-l33t at Rimworld.   I tend to play on medium difficulty and I tend to play on year-round-farming-weather maps in mountainous terrain and I play with Phoebe ... yeah yeah I like playing a bit more relaxed, but I do well through some crises.  I saw a "let's play" series on Rimworld awhile back played by Quill18 whom beats the pants of me off almost every game, but at Rimworld he has made some major errors in my view, and among them was his notions of the Toxic Fallout event and how to deal with it.

I've weathered this -- I know many have -- but I think some who struggle with it might deal better.

The important essentials of this event are it will kill everything outdoors -- all plants including trees, and all animals -- over time.  In general, the smaller/weaker something is, the faster it will die -- so grasses and squirrels and boomrats will die first, then the bigger stuff.  Its important to note that not only will everything outdoors die, but the process of rotting/decaying is much faster -- I think corpses go from fresh to rotted to dessicated -- all three stages -- in just a day or so, versus several days of being fresh, then several more days of rotted before becoming dessicated.  So ... don't count on being able to just haul in those animal corpses when they die from the stuff.

All plants dying includes your crops, too.

A basic flub Quill18 makes that also applies to his dealing with the winter in the colder climes he prefers to play in for more challenge is thinking you can grow crops outdoors, or you can grow them in power-hungry hydroponics bays and that's it, there's no in between, if you don't have the electrical power to power hydroponics bays then you can't farm in cold winter or toxic fallout -- THIS IS NOT THE CASE, FOLK!  You can INDOOR FARM using Sunlamps (which you don't need research to build!) from the very getgo on soil.  I am endlessly befuddeld Quill18 STILL hasn't figured this out, but since he hasn't, I think there must be other players who haven't figured it out yet.

So ... given the above ... here are the things to do:

First, most immediately, hunt as much as you can.  Put everyone you have with a ranged weapon on hunting.  If I am remembering correctly that the smallest critters die first, hunt the smaller game first -- squirrels and rabbits.  Quill18 was also wrong that you can't hunt and get meat from boomrats or boomalopes, but honestly its a bit manpower-intensive (you need someone to actually shoot to kill the boomrate/boomalope, and several others standing by to stamp out the fire so you can recover the corpse).  Its fine to hunt boomrats/boomlopes normally, generally during the rain or snowed-in winter that will reduce and contain the fires -- but Toxic Fallout is major crunch time and I don't consider boomrats/boomalopes worth it to go hunt unless they are the majority of the 'meat' on the map.

You also should start immediately building a large perimeter wall and internal support pillars to support a large roofed area for farming ... focus on growth-enhancing soil.  You'll save time and material using pre-existing walls and hills/mountains to connect walls to and minimize how many actual walls you build ... your people need to stay inside, so you should make sure to encompass an area to zone for stone chunks and the stone cutting table if you normally keep those outdoors (as I do) -- no, the toxic fallout won't hurt the chunks or table, but it will buildup and make sick your haulers and stonecutters.

Unless you are really hurting for food already, I wouldn't bother trying to harvest wild agave/berries.

If you are going to tame animals, do that quickly.  I would honestly not bother trying to tame too many -- really I'd just focus on taming a few boars if you need haulers and alpaca for valuable wool.  I would NOT bother trying to tame anything hard even though I normally do -- elephants, cougars, etc.  That takes too much time even for a high-skill Handler, and you just don't have the time -- those animals will likely die before you tame them, and your tamers will get a toxic buildup while achieving nothing.

Anyone not immediately needed for other tasks should have their priorities for hunting, construction and hauling bumped up.  If you have a store of cooked meals saved up, I'd honestly reduce your cooking to a minimum for the short term -- if you have multiple cooks, I'd honestly de-prioritize cooking for all but one (and I'd choose the one to keep cooking whom is the least useful at taming, hunting or construction, and especially if they can't haul or are slow at moving) ... only cook simple meals for the short turm, suspend fine or lavish as they are too slow and for the near future, you are under the gun for time.

Continue up the sizes for hunting.  Its a fire sale, everything must go!  I don't like hunting elephants or rhinos, but if you don't, they'll just die and dessicate quickly.  I think trees will be among the last things to die, but they too must go -- cut 'em or lose 'em.  Toxic Fallout can last up to a year.  I generally find it lasts at least a whole season ... I think it can be much shorter, but you never know and I think its best to assume the worst -- that it will last a very long time and absolutely everything will die.

Get those walls and supports (single-tile walls) built.  Turn off 'Growing' entirely until the walls and supports are built, harvest what you can of your current crops immediately.  Use your growers for other tasks -- taming, hunting and construction to start -- even if they aren't particularly adept -- and if nothing else, hauling if possible as a higher priority than growing.

Speaking of supports ... you probably know you can only have a certain maximum span between constructed walls to support a roof.  I can never remember the exact amount ... but if you do a square grid with ten spaces in between, that will support a roof (so a single tile of wall, ten spaces, then another tile of wall).  You may want to adjust things a bit to build those single-tile-wall-roof-supports on ungrowable terrain such as sand or rough stone to minimize how much growable terrain is eaten by those supports.

You may want to consider growing trees as well for wood -- IIRC, Cecropias offer the best wood-per-unit-time ratio.  Yeah, you can grow anything indoors with this method, not just the crops you can grow in hydroponics!

Sunlamps cost a LOT less power than sunlamps-with-hydroponics, but they are still an extra power cost, so you may also need to build additional power generation.  While anything can grow under a roof, solar and wind power only works in unroofed areas -- something else Quill18 misses and I did as well, until recently, is solar panels do NOT block wind turbines!  This can help you make much more efficient power setups.  Of course its ideal to shoot for Geothermal as quickly as possible.

Don't forget haygrass among your indoor crops, either.  If you have wargs, cougars or other meat-only creatures, you will have to keep them supplied with meat -- you may have to forgo fine/lavish meals to leave all your meat to your meat-eaters if you want to keep them alive.  However, its also important to note that wargs and cougars are JUST FINE eating corpses and even ROTTEN corpses -- so if you are too late to hunt/retrieve an animal (or human :P) and their corpse has reached the rotted stage, setup a refrigerated zone near your carnivore sleeping area just for rotten corpses (its a bit of a pain I hope gets fixed in a future version -- give it a slightly elevated priority but not as high as your freezer, allow it to accept rotten) and your colony carnivores will chomp them down.  Unfortunately, as I previously mentioned, corpses go from fresh to rotten to dessicated very quickly during a Toxic Fallout Event, so you'll have to act quickly if you spot a corpse that's already reached the rotten state -- don't wait for haulers to find it on their own but manually force a nearby colonists to haul that corpse immediately (do this for a regular fresh corpse too!).

Get those walls and supports up as quickly as you can, and set zones to keep your colonists and animals indoors.  Bring all the resources you will need indoors -- metal, rock chunks, everything.  I think trees are among the last to die, but don't forget to harvest them too as they will eventually die if the fallout lasts long enough unless you have a ridiculous surplus of wood already.

UNFORTUNATELY, raiders/attacking tribals are a HUGE PROBLEM and Quill18 BLEW IT BADLY HERE.  You -CANNOT- wait them out.  ALthough supposedly the fallout is affecting a huge area or the entire planet, in game terms anything that enters your map from outside starts out fresh.  That means even minor amounts of toxic buildup in your colonists gives your colonists a shorter survival span than the attackers.  Do NOT let raiders take out your walls.  You will need to be at the ready to draft colonists, pop them outside your walls for a minimum possible time (if the enemy is waiting for awhile and will then attack, wait for them to get close to your colony first -- but if they're sieging or bringing sappers, go out and attack immediately -- its crucial you keep your crops you worked so hard to roof in and support protected from toxic fallout; if sappers or siegers breach your walls, it will expose all your crops in that area to fallout and you could lose something precious to a roof collapse).  If you have meat-eating animals (carnivores or omnivores -- anything that can eat a corpse), consider just hauling fallen enemy corpses to an indoor freezer zone near where your animals are.  Animals do NOT get mood debuffs for eating human corpses -- but its a good idea to keep a freezer separate from any other freezer for this, just for your animals, and with no doors leading anywhere within this freezer so your colonists won't keep walking through it and getting debuffs for 'Observed corpse.'  Generally just a freezer with only a single door to go in and out of.

If you build a large-enough roofed-in area, it may not be necessary to re-arrange coolers even if your roofed-in area encompasses the hot side of your coolers you use for your freezer unless a 'heat wave' happens.

With boomrats/boomalopes, I think Toxic Fallout suppresses fire spreading a bit ... at the very least, grass dies quickly so fires from the fallout killing the boomrats/boomalopes won't tend to last long.  Its up to you if you feel like exposing your colonists to the toxic fallout temporarily to stamp out the fires to collect the corpses of boomrats/boomalopes ... it will probably come down to your situation, how much food you have and how long it will take before your indoor farming gets going if you have had to significantly re-arrange what grows where.  I would generally draft and move 3 or so colonists out to knock the flames out from the boomrat/boomalope corpses (ANOTHER common misconception I've seen Quill18 make and repeated a lot on here -- YOU CAN SPECIFICALLY ORDER COLONISTS TO FIREFIGHT by drafting them and having them stand near a fire), and have hauling-capable other colonists at the closest proximate point to indoors the moment you stamp the fire off a boomrat/boomalope corpse to haul it to your freezer.   Its micromanagement-intensive.  I honestly wouldn't fuss with trying to knock down all the fires that result, unless its close to a flammable structure of yours (hopefully you have enough cut stone blocks to build your walls of stone instead of wood!).

After your walls and roof supports are built, make your growing zones.  Make sure to remember every crop you might need -- food (corn tends to be optimal for food-per-unit-time but strawberries and rice grow the fastest, cotton and/or devilstrand, healroot and trees for wood) and build Sunlamps to cover your crops (its okay to leave sime in the 60% lit zone at the edges) and power conduit to power them, but only AFTER your walls/supports are complete and you have a roofed-in area (Sunlamps have a tendancy to explode if outdoors).

After all that is set ... then adjust colonist work priorities.  Hunting should be turned off, taming back on if you tamed some animals needing training (like boars to haul).  Make sure your colonists and animals are set to stay indoors ... if you chose a hilly or mountainous region and your roofed-in area encompasses a hill/mountain, you may want to consider including part of the hill/mountain itself as a zone your colonists can be in, so you can mine it out a bit while you wait out the toxic fallout.  Keep your colonists indoors ... toxic buildup CANNOT be cured by a doc, it will only very slowly reduce over time (IIRC, it takes longer to reduce than it does to buildup, so don't count on keeping your colonists working outdoors, taking them back in when its major, and expecting to be able to let them go back out after a short while).
#357
This is a real life rice farm:  http://i.unu.edu/media/ourworld.unu.edu-en/article/1930/thailands-rice-farmers.jpg

Rice grows best basically in shallow, marshy water like this.  I know gameplay > real life, but in this case I think it also offers some variety if rice has a natural soil bonus whereas other plants incur a penalty.

And maybe, if this is considered, also consider a terrain or somesuch in which potatoes are king.
#358
Quote from: celem on May 03, 2016, 02:54:59 AM
They dont generate a lot of heat, its really not that bad.  They also produce some light and are aesthetically neutral so I love having em indoors.  All of which is incredibly handy when combined with the fact that they are immune to a solar flare.

Huh?  Solar flares knock out everything electrical, unless you're referring to the light and heat from the generators.  SFAIK, solar flares knock out all electricity regardless of source (solar palens, wind turbines, geothermal or fuel generator).  The power generators still run so you'd still get the heat and light from a fuel generator or heat from geothermal, but no electricity gets to power anything.  Battery charges seem to tend to freeze, neither charging nor draining during a solar flare.
#359
Quote from: Haplo on May 01, 2016, 05:56:49 AM
Quote from: Maitri on April 30, 2016, 07:54:31 PM
Unsure if this is a widespread problem but I cannot create new worlds with Miscellaneous Map Generator turned on.

You click 'generate' and then it just blinks and goes back to the world generator screen, creating nothing. With this turned off, it works fine. Took me a while to identify it.
Hmm, I don't know what could be the problem there..
Can you post your output_log.txt file from after you've tried it, please?
You can find it in the folder RimWorld/RimWorldXXXWin_Data/


UPDATE:
I've updated MAI and Robots. This is only a small update to fix the robot trader.
Big thank you to Hiztaar for finding it :)

Furthermore I fixed a ?possible? savegame-breaking bug in Incidents.
This may be the reason why Demonlord091 and ticattack have a destroyed savegame.
The problem is that incidents fires the incident to spawn a new visitor if there isn't anyone nearby.
This spawning was faulty by allowing the colony faction to be a valid faction. This is a problem for the incident handler..
Thanks to Demonlord091 I could identify this big mistake.

I recommend everyone using Misc. Incidents to update to the newest version asap!

Sorry for the inconveniences.  :-[



If you have a savegame that doesn't load because of Incidents, please post it and I'll try to repair it.

If you want, you can also do it yourself:
- open the savegame with a text editor (like notepad++)
- search for <storyteller>
- In there delete all entries in <queuedIncidents> so that it looks like this:
<incidentQueue>
<queuedIncidents />
</incidentQueue>

-save and try to load the game

I DEFINITELY recommend both fixes (the patch + clearing out incidentQueue from your savefile).  After downloading and installing the patch, nothing changed -- I had no weather/incidents/traders for a year prior to the patch nor several months (in-game-time) after it, but after clearing out the incident queue in the savefile ... holy cow, its trying to make up for lost time.  Escape pod crash, and while ... ummm ... making sure that person is safe :P by taking them to a secure room, another escape pod crashed (before I could even get to the first one) and I suddenly had a lot of weather, too.  The entire previous year and a half or so, I had no rain nor any sort of weather at all, either :/  Hopefully traders will come soon.  I'm out of components and my freezer and general stockpile areas are full of stuff I've been making.  Its been frustrating only having four colonists for so long.  And raiders just hit, too ... all within just a couple hours of clearing out the IncidentQueue!
#360
I noticed when a wild cougar killed a wild alpaca, the alpaca corpse was forbidden automatically but not long afterward, the same wild cougar killed a wild boar and that was not auto-forbidden.  Seems as though it should be consistent.