Playing on largest map setting. Friendly often walk away from the base and ended up dieing near the edge of the map. I wish the game will gives you notification about a down friendly.
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#32
General Discussion / Re: Post a cool tip you know about!
July 25, 2017, 07:40:55 AM
No Pemmican can't go into the dispenser (which is the hopper).
All meat and vegetarian has the same nutrition value set at 0.05. As a result it is more a matter of how efficient it is for you to bring the ingredient in concern to the hopper, which in turns depends on soil fertility/ biome/ base layout and etc.
All meat and vegetarian has the same nutrition value set at 0.05. As a result it is more a matter of how efficient it is for you to bring the ingredient in concern to the hopper, which in turns depends on soil fertility/ biome/ base layout and etc.
#33
General Discussion / Re: Chemfuel feedstock?
July 25, 2017, 07:26:13 AM
Just come up with a better way to do it.
6 human meat/rice/potato = 1 nutrient paste
4 nutrient paste = 35 chemfuel.
Effectively means 24 human meat/rice = 30 chemfuel, 65% off!
6 human meat/rice/potato = 1 nutrient paste
4 nutrient paste = 35 chemfuel.
Effectively means 24 human meat/rice = 30 chemfuel, 65% off!
#34
General Discussion / Re: Post a cool tip you know about!
July 25, 2017, 07:15:24 AM
You know how it usually takes 70 kibble/human meat/wood to make chemfuel?
I just realize you can make chemfuel with merely 4 nutrient paste, which is like 24 human meat/rice.
Too bad you can't make nutrient paste out of kibble lol.
I just realize you can make chemfuel with merely 4 nutrient paste, which is like 24 human meat/rice.
Too bad you can't make nutrient paste out of kibble lol.
#35
General Discussion / Re: Post a cool tip you know about!
July 25, 2017, 03:58:51 AM
I just did some analysis on food value.
Apparently you can use Nutrient paste dispenser to mass produce nutrient paste for animal feed.
Each paste cost 0.3 nutrition to make and the paste is worth 0.9 nutrition (x 300%). Kibble on the other hand cost 2 nutrition and result in 2.5 nutrition (x 125%). (Each piece of meat/hay/rice and etc is worth 0.05 nutrition)
Animal will eat the paste when Food is at 45%. 0.9/55% = 1.64. Which means any animal that has Food value greater than 1.7, can benefit from the full nutrition value of the paste.
Other issues to cosider:
1) Nutrient paste can only last 3 days under room temperature so unless you are in a biome where the ambiance temperature is below 0, solar flare and etc will limit your ability to stockpile nutrient paste. Kibble on the other hand couldn't spoil so it is still worth keeping a stockpile of them.
2) Most animal that have a Food value higher than 1.65, can tolerate -0 degree and below. You can keep the animals in a separate room or you can just keep them in the same fridge where you store your nutrient paste.
3) Lets first assume you are in a biome where hay is not an option. Normally you can make kibble using 20 rice + 20 human meat and that will give you 50 kibble (2.5 nutrition) . If you make Nutrient paste you can get 6 nutrition.
4) Now consider growing hay as stock feed. Hay is usually more efficient than rice in the sense that, each harvest gives 20 hay, wheres you only get 6 rice per harvest. In other words it is 3 times more effort in planting and harvesting when you grow rice. So unless your hay field is super far away from where you cook the kibble, hay is usually the way to go. The problem is that you can't make nutrition paste out of hay.
Lets assume that you have 20 hay and 20 human meat. If you make kibble, you get 2.5 nutrition. If you use the human meat for nutrient paste and keep the hay as it is, you have 4 nutrition. I think in this case, human meat nutrient paste + hay is still better than straight up kibble. You get way more nutrition, and you get to keep the hay which last 60 days and the option to make kibble out of it remains open.
5) A stack of nutrient paste= 9 nutrient, wheres a stack of kibble/hay = 3.75. This means less space in storage and less hauling. It does require a fridge for storage thou.
6) Another noticeably huge advantages/disadvantages of using nutrient paste dispenser to feed your animal-- You can use a totally useless pawn to manually pour out nutrient pastes in no time. To do this, you need a hungry pawn that is restricted only to the area where you have the dispenser and away from any other food. As soon as he received his nutrient paste and has turn his back moving away, pause the game and press R to Draft the pawn. The pawn will drop his paste form his/her hand. Press R again to undraft the pawn, and he/she will get a new paste from the dispenser. You can do this for as long as the dispenser's hopper has ingredients. If a pastes landed on a hopper, the pawn will stop making new pastes and just grab the one on the hopper. Hence for this trick to work you can only use 6 hoppers (3 on the back, 3 on the right and 3 on the left) which can stock enough human meat for 112 pastes. You can turn these into nutrient paste in no time and it requires way less effort than making kibbles.
Edit
7) If you raise cows for milk, and feed your cows with milk based nutrient paste, you get a positive feed back loop resulting in excessive milk(profit!). Now if you keep 1 bull and some cows together, then every 20 days you get a new calf from each cows you have. That calf can be slaughtered right away for 37 meats + 18 leathers.
Apparently you can use Nutrient paste dispenser to mass produce nutrient paste for animal feed.
Each paste cost 0.3 nutrition to make and the paste is worth 0.9 nutrition (x 300%). Kibble on the other hand cost 2 nutrition and result in 2.5 nutrition (x 125%). (Each piece of meat/hay/rice and etc is worth 0.05 nutrition)
Animal will eat the paste when Food is at 45%. 0.9/55% = 1.64. Which means any animal that has Food value greater than 1.7, can benefit from the full nutrition value of the paste.
Other issues to cosider:
1) Nutrient paste can only last 3 days under room temperature so unless you are in a biome where the ambiance temperature is below 0, solar flare and etc will limit your ability to stockpile nutrient paste. Kibble on the other hand couldn't spoil so it is still worth keeping a stockpile of them.
2) Most animal that have a Food value higher than 1.65, can tolerate -0 degree and below. You can keep the animals in a separate room or you can just keep them in the same fridge where you store your nutrient paste.
3) Lets first assume you are in a biome where hay is not an option. Normally you can make kibble using 20 rice + 20 human meat and that will give you 50 kibble (2.5 nutrition) . If you make Nutrient paste you can get 6 nutrition.
4) Now consider growing hay as stock feed. Hay is usually more efficient than rice in the sense that, each harvest gives 20 hay, wheres you only get 6 rice per harvest. In other words it is 3 times more effort in planting and harvesting when you grow rice. So unless your hay field is super far away from where you cook the kibble, hay is usually the way to go. The problem is that you can't make nutrition paste out of hay.
Lets assume that you have 20 hay and 20 human meat. If you make kibble, you get 2.5 nutrition. If you use the human meat for nutrient paste and keep the hay as it is, you have 4 nutrition. I think in this case, human meat nutrient paste + hay is still better than straight up kibble. You get way more nutrition, and you get to keep the hay which last 60 days and the option to make kibble out of it remains open.
5) A stack of nutrient paste= 9 nutrient, wheres a stack of kibble/hay = 3.75. This means less space in storage and less hauling. It does require a fridge for storage thou.
6) Another noticeably huge advantages/disadvantages of using nutrient paste dispenser to feed your animal-- You can use a totally useless pawn to manually pour out nutrient pastes in no time. To do this, you need a hungry pawn that is restricted only to the area where you have the dispenser and away from any other food. As soon as he received his nutrient paste and has turn his back moving away, pause the game and press R to Draft the pawn. The pawn will drop his paste form his/her hand. Press R again to undraft the pawn, and he/she will get a new paste from the dispenser. You can do this for as long as the dispenser's hopper has ingredients. If a pastes landed on a hopper, the pawn will stop making new pastes and just grab the one on the hopper. Hence for this trick to work you can only use 6 hoppers (3 on the back, 3 on the right and 3 on the left) which can stock enough human meat for 112 pastes. You can turn these into nutrient paste in no time and it requires way less effort than making kibbles.
Edit
7) If you raise cows for milk, and feed your cows with milk based nutrient paste, you get a positive feed back loop resulting in excessive milk(profit!). Now if you keep 1 bull and some cows together, then every 20 days you get a new calf from each cows you have. That calf can be slaughtered right away for 37 meats + 18 leathers.
#36
General Discussion / Re: need help building defenses
July 25, 2017, 12:08:26 AM
That dead fall trap is super late game. Here is what you can do early game.
Instead of recruiting more pawns, train more animals for defence. Build an arena and some backdoors for your animal to ambush the enemy. Aviod friendly fires (in most case it means not using guns at all) and get some EMP to deal with mechanoids. Works on every threat type except tribe. For tribe raid you need mass mortars to thin them out first.
Rise boars for defends, alpacas for wool and silver. Train the alpacas so you can deal with ambush easier.
[attachment deleted by admin due to age]
Instead of recruiting more pawns, train more animals for defence. Build an arena and some backdoors for your animal to ambush the enemy. Aviod friendly fires (in most case it means not using guns at all) and get some EMP to deal with mechanoids. Works on every threat type except tribe. For tribe raid you need mass mortars to thin them out first.
Rise boars for defends, alpacas for wool and silver. Train the alpacas so you can deal with ambush easier.
[attachment deleted by admin due to age]
#37
General Discussion / Re: need help building defenses
July 24, 2017, 11:51:49 PM
Don't take every random pawns into your colony. More pawns = more enemy spawning per raid.
[attachment deleted by admin due to age]
[attachment deleted by admin due to age]
#39
General Discussion / Re: How effective are animals as combat units?
July 20, 2017, 05:14:01 AM
Currently on extreme Randy random rain forest, 6 pawns and at least 100+ boars and less than 50 alpacas. Boars and etc is pretty much the only reason I am still alive.
Avoid friendly fire by not using ranged weapon.
Watch out for enemy molotov cocktail and incendiary launcher.
Train both alpacas and boars but keep the alpacas away from combat - it is an annoying task to find out which alpaca has a broken leg.
I suppose later in the game those doomsday rocket launcher can be an issue too. I am gona randomly place some walls all over the map to break raider's line of sight.
Avoid friendly fire by not using ranged weapon.
Watch out for enemy molotov cocktail and incendiary launcher.
Train both alpacas and boars but keep the alpacas away from combat - it is an annoying task to find out which alpaca has a broken leg.
I suppose later in the game those doomsday rocket launcher can be an issue too. I am gona randomly place some walls all over the map to break raider's line of sight.
#40
General Discussion / Re: Worst colonist ever
July 18, 2017, 02:45:20 AM
Just come across this one.
[attachment deleted by admin due to age]
[attachment deleted by admin due to age]
#41
General Discussion / Re: rock rubble/ Slag debris/ animal filth &etc causing lag?
July 15, 2017, 05:20:03 PM
ty for the mod recommendation
Um.. although I suspect the usual "dirt" you've mentioned may also have a role in this issue, I wasn't really talking about those.
You know when the game spawn in Steel Slag Chunks and Rock Chunks, it spawn with them some rock rubble and slag debris? Also happens when a building is destroy, roof collapse, sandbag destroy (check the attachment). These "dirt" cannot be wash away by the rain and over time they can cover a pretty large area of the map. I play on the largest map size.
[attachment deleted by admin due to age]
Um.. although I suspect the usual "dirt" you've mentioned may also have a role in this issue, I wasn't really talking about those.
You know when the game spawn in Steel Slag Chunks and Rock Chunks, it spawn with them some rock rubble and slag debris? Also happens when a building is destroy, roof collapse, sandbag destroy (check the attachment). These "dirt" cannot be wash away by the rain and over time they can cover a pretty large area of the map. I play on the largest map size.
[attachment deleted by admin due to age]
#42
General Discussion / rock rubble/ Slag debris/ animal filth &etc causing lag?
July 15, 2017, 12:38:50 PM
I did a little search but didn't find anything related.
Long story short:
1) Set the home area cover the whole map
2) Set everyone's work priority to clean only
Result: Game Run much smoother at speed 3
Only take me 2 game days to remove all those rubbles and debris. Totally worth the effort. Wish I know this earlier.
Long story short:
1) Set the home area cover the whole map
2) Set everyone's work priority to clean only
Result: Game Run much smoother at speed 3
Only take me 2 game days to remove all those rubbles and debris. Totally worth the effort. Wish I know this earlier.
#43
General Discussion / Re: Mortars: any good?
July 11, 2017, 08:41:56 AM
Last I check the game automatically start raining if you use multiple incendiary mortars in a single volley. Has this been fixed?
#44
General Discussion / Re: Mortars: any good?
July 10, 2017, 03:20:28 AM
Sometimes I can have snapper spawning from location that is really close to my base. I only have enough time to fire a volley of mortar fire before they reach my line of defense. In cases like that it usually comes down to which side get to fire their doomsday rocket launcher first. It is kind of ridiculous that the raider can sometime brings in 5+ doomsday rocket launchers and triple rocket launchers.
Last time the raider decided to gang up on my thrumbo and it gets completely surrounded. I use my mortars on the raiders while they are busy meleeing my thrumbo. The one shot that landed right at the center of the group pretty much get them all. I patch up my thrumbo and he has a full recovery.
Last time the raider decided to gang up on my thrumbo and it gets completely surrounded. I use my mortars on the raiders while they are busy meleeing my thrumbo. The one shot that landed right at the center of the group pretty much get them all. I patch up my thrumbo and he has a full recovery.
#45
General Discussion / Re: Mortars: any good?
July 05, 2017, 11:26:45 AM
Remember when reloading the mortar don't require a mortar shell (hence no cost)? Back than I will have as many mortars as I can operate and fire them all at once at those super large raid group. This create some kind of carpet bombing effect and it was super fun to watch for how bad ass it is. Also for its accuracy it was the only way to make it work. Ever since the introduction of mortar shell, that bit of fun is gone
.
The new mortar as of A17 is much more accurate, it is pretty good at weakening enemy raid group. For my settlement size of 12 I only need 4 mortars firing about 4~6 volleys when dealing with human raids. Also works very well in damaging the psychic ships hence forcing the mechanoid to attack, which in turn effectively separating the Scyther from the Centipede for a easier defending fight. It doesn't really help in damaging the mechanoid as it is pretty hard to hit them without damaging the psychic ship.
Overall the A17 mortar is more useful for its accuracy. You don't need to have 20+ man to make effective bombardment possible. However it is not as fun as the old mortar which is totally inaccurate but free of operating cost.

The new mortar as of A17 is much more accurate, it is pretty good at weakening enemy raid group. For my settlement size of 12 I only need 4 mortars firing about 4~6 volleys when dealing with human raids. Also works very well in damaging the psychic ships hence forcing the mechanoid to attack, which in turn effectively separating the Scyther from the Centipede for a easier defending fight. It doesn't really help in damaging the mechanoid as it is pretty hard to hit them without damaging the psychic ship.
Overall the A17 mortar is more useful for its accuracy. You don't need to have 20+ man to make effective bombardment possible. However it is not as fun as the old mortar which is totally inaccurate but free of operating cost.